Rio, beautiful Rio

February 14, 2016 – Day one

After two days at sea and a stop in Santos – Brazil’s largest port, but otherwise simply a bland city with a nice beach – we arrived in Rio. Last night – my birthday – we attended a special Valentine’s Day wine dinner where a lovely violin/piano duo played “Happy Birthday” for me.

We have heard so much about the polluted waters, the extreme poverty, and the crime that we were a bit apprehensive about this visit. What we saw as we sailed toward the city was unbelievable beauty. The city wraps itself around the mammoth granite mountains and along the many beaches. It is possibly one of the most beautiful cities we have ever seen.

For the first day we booked a shore excursion through the ship that featured highlights of Rio and a trip to see the big guy atop Corcovado Mountain. There is massive construction in preparation for the Summer Olympic Games in August. We are not optimistic that it will be finished in time.  We were also not optimistic about our own survival as we waited in a large warehouse full of busses with running motors before boarding our assigned bus and beginning our tour. But survive we did. When we did leave the warehouse we were greeted by the sight of several large floats from Carnival traveling to the next celebration. The various neighborhoods host Carnival events on various nights during the week. Today is the last day.

This was a Sunday, so the traffic was light. The streets are lined with large trees that provide much needed shade and relief from the heat. This was a pleasant surprise in such a large city as the trees were not confined to merely a few special avenues.  As we drove we saw the Yacht Club (in Portuguese – Iate Clube) on the infamous polluted bay that is supposed to host the sailing events for the Olympics. The bay beach was virtually empty on a hot Sunday due to the pollution.

When we arrived at the Tijuca Forest at Corcovado Mountain we boarded a 115-year-old cogwheel tram for the trip through the forest up the top. On the way up we were talking with two young people out sightseeing, but still suffering the effects of some late-night Carnival partying. One was an American who has been living in Rio for several years. Her friend is from France and works for Microsoft.

At the feet atop Corcovado

The trip up is so steep that at some points I had to hold on to keep from falling out of my seat since I was sitting with my back to the front of the car. In addition to the tram there is a very winding road to the top for cars and small vans. At the end of the ride we boarded elevators, followed by a choice of either an escalator or 230 stairs (we chose the escalator) to the 2,400-foot summit. There, at the foot of the 125-foot tall granite covered in soapstone statue, we were treated to amazing views of the city, sea, and countryside. We were lucky to be here on a clear day, so our views were unobstructed. Truly awe-inspiring.    

Before heading back down the mountain we stopped for a drink at the café where we had another interesting conversation with a young man from Egypt who laments what is happening in his country and how the government and the people no longer seem to care about keeping the cities clean and caring for the country’s historical monuments.

While waiting for our return tram we were entertained by monkeys in the tree-tops feeding. One was a female with her baby riding on her back. On the way down I was seated facing up, so no worries about falling out of my seat. John, seated in front of me, got into a conversation with two young Brazilian men from Sao Paulo. They spoke excellent English, but were “charmed” by John’s Portuguese. Not only is his Portuguese from Portugal – a different accent than Brazilian – but it is also a bit different from “modern” Portuguese since it is no longer his primary language and has not evolved.

The show on board tonight was a “Celebration of Carnival” with lots of samba music, dancing and beautiful, scantily=clad Brazilian women. At the end the show continued out of the theater and to the reception area of the ship. The average age of passengers on this cruise is 73, which means the ship is usually very quiet. But not tonight!

February 15, 2016 – Rio Day Two

Today we booked a private tour with Seattle friends Brook and Sharon. We started at Sugar Loaf Mountain – two mountains linked together by cable cars. Again we enjoyed a spectacular view of Rio. Although not as panoramic, these views were more intimate because we were not so high. At the top of the first of the two mountains we walked along an elevated walkway through the tree-tops. Although we saw signs instructing us not to feed he monkeys, unfortunately we never saw any.

The cable car system taking visitors to the tops of the two mountains was completed in 1914, and the story of how they were constructed is the subject of an interesting exhibit on the first segment. Also included are two of the earlier cars as well as life-size bronze statues of the founders.

With one of the first cable cars and the engineer at Sugar Loaf

After a delicious lunch at the famous Copacabana Beach we visited the amazing Escaladora Solara. This is a stairway whose sides and steps are covered in thousands of colorful tile squares from all over the world. It was built by a rich man in memory of his young wife and unborn child who had been killed in an accident. We did not climb to the top due to the heat, but learned later we had made a wise decision because the top of the staircase is at the base of a favela where lots of “dodgy” characters hang out. 

At the Solara stairs

Even we merited a tile!

So, goodbye beautiful Rio. We are off to Ilheaus.

Two days in Buenos Aires

Day One – comings and goings

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Lots of activity this morning as over 130 of our fellow passengers left the ship – including several we have grown fond of. We said goodbye to Lew and Theresa from Washington DC; to Ian and Elspeth from Edinburgh, Scotland; and to Jurg and Elo from Switzerland. Even with new passengers coming aboard, we are now 70 fewer – lots of extra cabins!

This is a large, very busy container port so passengers are not allowed to walk from the ship to the terminal. Instead we board shuttle busses for the 10-minute ride to the terminal building where we meet our tour bus, and where others catch taxis or book private tours. In addition to the Prinsendam’s many disembarking and embarking passengers, two other cruise ships were boarding very large numbers for cruises that originated in Buenos Aires. It’s a busy place.

As we got off our shuttle bus to begin our two-day tour we saw friends from last year’s world cruise, Jay and Barbara from England, waiting to board. They will be with us the rest of the journey to Fort Lauderdale.

This afternoon we began our two-day adventure exploring this beautiful city. It is called the “Paris of South America” and we can see why. It has a very European feel in both its architecture and ambiance. Traffic is light because it’s Fat Tuesday, the last day of the Carnival celebration.

Our guide, Paola, gave us a rather detailed history of the Eva Peron era. It is apparent that Eva is still revered here as she is the reason there are social services here today. We visited a monument to her constructed at the site of the house in which she died – which had been torn down by the elites who had fought her efforts to help the workers. We also visited Eva’s grave in the famous Recoleta Cemetery. Ironically she is interred there surrounded by the mausoleums of the social elite in Argentina who hated her so much. The door to her mausoleum is always adorned with fresh flowers.

           At Evita's tomb.

As we passed under the over-pass of a relatively new highway we saw a monument in the dirt to the hundreds of people whose bodies had been found there as the excavations for the highway began. They are among the hundreds – maybe thousands – of the “disappeared” who were incarcerated and never heard from again during one of Argentina’s several repressive military regimes.

Remembering the "disappeared."

We are amazed how Buenos Aires continues to thrive in spite of near constant upheaval in the national government. After only 30 years of a fragile democracy the country is once again in military hands – the Peronistas. They are the reason the mayor of Buenos Aires decided to erect a statue of Peron so many years after his death.

The Plaza de Mayo, the main square, is currently occupied by the tents of hundreds of protestors against the current government policies which are privatizing many services and reducing social services. Many of the banners mention Evita. There are also references to the “mothers’ movement” seeking information about their missing sons and relatives who are still unaccounted for as part of the “disappeared.” A group of army veterans from the Falkland War (the war of the Malvinas) whose veteran benefits have been ended have occupied the square for the past eight years. The square is adjacent to the Casa Rosada – the pink government building. This is where the crowds that cheered Evita gathered, so if you saw the movie, you will recognize the building.

Another highlight of our tour was the 75-foot metal flower. Located in one of Buenos Aires many beautiful parks, it opens and closes daily with the light. Paola told us that the flower broke on the day its creator died, but has since been repaired.

Giant flower sculpture

We had an early dinner in an Argentinian steak house in Puerto Madero. This area is the old dock-lands of the city that fell into neglect after construction of the new port in 1926. A regeneration project begun in 1989 has transformed the area into a fashionable neighborhood of apartments, shops and restaurants. Because we were unfashionably early, there were not many people about. An elderly gentleman from our bus had his Rolex watch stolen while there. It is difficult to generate much sympathy, however, since we have received numerous warnings about not wearing expensive jewelry and avoiding walking alone. He was doing both.

In the evening we were treated to a tango show at one of the city’s most famous tango theaters. Tango is enjoying a renaissance today. There are tango clubs all over the city where the young people visit to dance the nights away. Jay, our friend from the world cruise who just boarded this ship today was a dance host on the Amsterdam. He and Barbara have just spent the last three weeks here perfecting their tango!  The tango show clubs are a bit like the Fado Houses in Lisbon.

As we were returning to the ship about 10:00 p.m. we passed a long line of ship’s crew members just leaving to “paatee” the night away. Buenos Aires has a very vibrant night club scene that kicks off about 11:00 each night and lasts into the wee hours. Ah, to be young again.

Day two – the neighborhoods

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

This morning we were off again to visit the neighborhoods of San Telmo and La Boca – two of Buenos Aires’ most historical and artistic centers. At the Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo neighborhood – where independence from Spain was sworn in 1816, we had coffee in an historic coffee house with our guide and friends, Toya and Bob from Chicago. The rest of our fellow tourers were at the Starbucks across the street using the Wi-Fi. Go figure.

With Toya, Paola and Bob at San Telmo coffee house

Then on to La Boca – a fun, busy, colorful neighborhood with lots of tango dancers on the street and many artists. The walls of the buildings are painted many vivid colors and covered with murals. This was the area where approximately 6 million immigrants from Italy, Spain and Central Europe landed at the port between 1880 and 1930. Being short of supplies to paint their newly-built houses, the residents used whatever leftover paint they could find from the shipyard. The result is varied, to say the least. After roaming around the open-air market, “La Caminito”, among all the shops and craft and artist stalls, we ended up purchasing a print from a man who was minding several artists’ stands. Snoozing on a chair behind the easels was a cat. Although it is a stray, it comes here every day where the man feeds it. Not exactly a pet, but almost. I did get to have a small “kitty fix”.

At home among the art stalls

As the tour was ending we had the choice of getting off at the central, up-scale shopping center on Florida Avenue and taking the ship’s shuttle back later, or returning with the tour. We got off and enjoyed mingling with the crowds, walking up and down the wide pedestrian through way. We had a light lunch at a small sandwich shop. Later, as we approached an intersection on our way back to the shuttle stop, we were delighted to spot Lew and Theresa, who were spending a few days in Buenos Aires before flying home to DC.

And so, we bid adios to Buenos Aires. Next stop, Santos, Brazil. We will be in Brazil for almost two weeks.

Old and new in Uruguay

Montevideo, Uruguay

February 8, 2016

After two days at sea, today we arrived in Montevideo, Uruguay. What a change in the weather – from daily highs in the 50s to today’s expected 80s. The past two days have been bitter sweet as we have said goodbye to friends who are departing in Buenos Aires tomorrow. We have exchanged cards and promises to keep in touch. We have invites to visit in Switzerland and Edinburgh. Over 130 of our fellow travelers are leaving the ship in Buenos Aires, and although new passengers will be boarding, we will finish the journey with 70 fewer guests.

We are docked near the city and can easily walk into town – our favorite situation – no shuttles needed! Although we had scheduled a tour that included a drive around town and a trip to a winery, we cancelled in favor of simply exploring on our own. This is a wonderfully walkable city, although eerily quiet for city of 1.5 million. That’s because today is the second day of the three-day Carnival. We saw confetti left over from the previous night’s celebrations. However, the architecture and squares are charming and, as the day progressed, we saw lots of families out enjoying their holiday.

Montevideo skyline

Uruguay is the smallest country in South America and wedged between Argentina and Brazil. It has a distinctly European feel to it. Montevideo flows from its Old City – Ciudad Vieja – on the peninsula to the New City – Ciudad Nuevo – a bit more inland. A lovely “gate” marks the end of the Old and the beginning of the new. We walked from the pier, past the old gate and through the Plaza Indepencia, all the way into the new city along the main shopping street Avenida 18 de Julio, where we had lunch at a little pastry shop next to another square. Montevideo has done a wonderful job of preserving its architecture intermingled with newer design buildings.

At the gate between old and new Montevideo

On the way back to the ship we found a lovely little shop – Esencia Uruguay – that specialized in Uruguayan wines and chocolates, so we bought some chocolate and a couple of bottles of wine. Wine making is a relatively new industry for Uruguay, so they have a way to go to match the quality of neighboring Argentina.

All in all, it was a pleasant day – although we had to learn to handle the heat again after the previous weeks in the Antarctic. Rain was in the forecast but, luckily, it held off until we were back aboard.

Strange floating junkyard of old ships

Tonight was celebration of Chinese New Year on the ship, so staff was decked out in Asian-style garb. We attended a special wine dinner featuring Asian cuisine.  Now we’re off to Buenos Aires for two days.

Penguins and off-roading in the Falklands

February 5, 2016

After a very rocky day at sea with 20-foot waves, we were delighted to awaken to sunshine, calm seas, and land – Port Stanley, capital of the Falkland Islands. The Falklands is known for its isolation, its barren terrain, its role as the center of a conflict between Argentina and the United Kingdom in 1982, and, most of all, for its sheep. With a population of fewer than 3,000 people, it is estimated that there are about 500 sheep per person.

We weren’t sure we would be able to visit today as yesterday’s weather had been so inhospitable. Ships – and lots of cruise ships visit here – sometimes have to skip this port because the seas are too rough for the tenders to make the trip safely from the ship to land. About ten years ago a sister ship of ours, the Amsterdam (on which we circumnavigated the globe in 2015) was anchored here. Many of its passengers were ashore when an unexpected storm came in that prevented the tenders from running and stranded the passengers. The local residents rallied and took in the stranded passengers overnight, providing accommodations, food, and, in some cases, prescription medicines. Now, before every cruise ship season (October – March or April), the local authorities take an inventory of who has rooms available and how many are handicapped accessible in order to prepare to offer assistance if needed.

Our tour today was to Volunteer Point, a major nesting ground for King, Gentoo and Magellanic penguins. This was a 7-hour tour that forced us to get up several hours earlier than our preferred time. Four hours of the tour were spent in a Land Rover (two hours each way) to cover the 47 miles from town.  Twelve miles of the trip (both ways) was off-road, and I do mean OFF! If we had thought the seas had been rough the day before, that was absolutely calm compared to the ride we had to Volunteer Point. We drove in and out of peat-boggy holes, up and down nearly vertical hills. It was so rough that my FitBit recorded about 8,000 “steps” which were “earned” on the drive.

Our driver, Elsa, is the co-owner with her daughter of Estancia Excursions (www.estancia-excursions.com) and a 6^th generation Falkland Islander. The company is named after her farm of approximately 13 thousand acres with 3000 sheep. We passed it on our way to volunteer point. The “real road” on which we traveled from Stanley the first 35 miles of the journey, before going off-road, was not much more than a gravel country road that did not exist until about 1985 – after the UK and Argentine war.  Elsa said that while it now takes a bit over an hour to get to town, before 1985 it took 3 hours to get to town. Most of the farms are situated on inlets because, without roads, the farmers had to send wool, and receive supplies via boat. Or drive for miles over rugged terrain and over rocky mountains. 

The country side, in addition to peat bogs, has many rock rivers. They look like glaciers, but with rocks instead of ice. They are the result of the large rock mountains expanding and contracting over the years until finally they break down into rivers of rock. When the road was constructed in 1985, geologists had their first opportunity to measure how deep the rock rivers were.

Elsa pointed out various sites from the war, including a mine field where Africans from Nairobi are working very methodically to clear the existing mines. We also saw the remains of two downed Argentine helicopters as well as sites where both British and Argentine troops had been positioned. Elsa and her family hosted a group of British paratroopers in their home at Estancia. The local farmers turned up in force with tractors and 4 x 4 vehicles to transport the troops to a vantage point. Our friend Bob, who took the “war” tour instead of visiting the penguins, said the Argentines might have won if they had not made a strategic mistake – showing up. ;-)

Nairobi workers clearing mines from the field

Volunteer Point is a beautiful 2-mile stretch of white-sand beach. The penguins’ rookeries were nearby and, as it was hatching season, the adult penguins made a constant trip from the rookery to the sea and back with food for the babies. The chicks are very curious and, if you are quiet and still, will come very close to check you out. We saw one Gentoo chick literally “posing” for one of our fellow passengers. Down the beach are large numbers of adolescent and “teen” chicks that have been pushed out to fend for themselves while mom and dad are busy feeding the newer hatchlings. One small group was in various stages of molting. One in particular, whose remaining baby feathers made it seem as if he was wearing a ruffled collar, seemed to enjoy our attention.

Magellenic penguins burrow, so you have to watch where you’re stepping. In one case we spied one hiding in his burrow. As we peeked inside, he put his back tail out the burrow hole and proceeded to poop for our benefit.

Gentoo penguin colony

Magellanic penguin in burrow

On Volunteer Beach

The penguins and your truly

Nose to nose with curious king penguin

Junior king penguin showing off - when he finishes molting his colored areas will be orange instead of yellow.

Down to the sea in shifts - king penguins

Out for a stroll

It was an interesting and tiring day. I think we are officially penguined out – a bit how we felt after seeing our umpteenth pagoda in Myanmar and Indonesia last year.

Now we have two days at sea coming up before our next stop – Montevideo, Uruguay on the 8^th.

Icebergs, whales, penguins and seals – Six Days in Antarctica

Day one: Crossing the Drake Passage

January 30, 2016

Rough seas as we round Cape Horn (again) and sail across the Drake Passage toward Antarctica. A normal sea day was made more exciting by an exceptional swerve by the ship. Seems the captain had to take evasive action to avoid hitting a large whale. The dramatic change of course even showed up on the route line on the cabin television. We had another formal night tonight and everyone had pictures taken with the cute, stuffed penguins that are ubiquitous aboard ship.

Formal night in penguin suits with penguins

Prepared for rough seas - strategically placed barf bags

On a sad note, tonight my aunt – Emily Lynn Deitrick Burklow Clouse, aged 89 – passed away. She was my mother’s younger sister known to me as Baby. On Monday she spoke with her oldest sister, my aunt Francis (Faffy) Hopper, and had a great cocktail party in her hospice room with her three adult children, Troy, Lynn, and Paul; Lynn’s husband, Van; her older brother (my mother’s twin) Lingan Deitrick; his wife Sally; my cousin Polly and her husband Lee. She left us at peace and with the same strength and dignity with which she lived her life. 

Day two: The Antarctic Experience

January 31, 2016

This morning we awoke to dramatic peaks, icebergs and glaciers. The scenery is beyond my limited abilities to describe. Such words as “awesome”, “beautiful”, and “overwhelming” are totally inadequate. We had whales close enough to the ship that we could hear them from our veranda, thanks to our captain’s thoughtful pause of the ship so we could enjoy a nice “visit” with the whales. We also saw a colony of chinstrap penguins on a rocky ledge.

              View from the veranda

                           Penguins on a ledge

                 

Due to the fragile nature of the Antarctic ecosystem, we have been asked to refrain from taking anything out on deck that might be blown overboard. Use of paper napkins in outdoor areas has been suspended. Smoking has been banned from verandas and the outdoor designated smoking areas. That means that the only place where smoking is allowed is in the casino. We have also been asked to keep noise levels to a minimum. Of course, our very presence has an impact on the ecosystem and Antarctic tourism is a growing business both via sea and land.

One of the best viewing spots for our scenic cruising is in the Crow’s Nest – a lounge on the 12^th deck at the front of the ship with windows all around. Today was the first of our scenic cruising days, so good seats were at a premium. There was some testiness as some inconsiderate passengers tried to save prime seats for extended periods of time. The icebergs are everywhere in huge sizes. As with clouds, many icebergs look like ships, animals, etc.

By afternoon snow had started to fall, which obscured our views and caused the captain to change course as some of the channels we were scheduled to sail through were too narrow to navigate in limited visibility. However the response to the snow by the crew – most of whom are from Indonesia and the Philippines – was priceless! They were euphoric seeing snow for the first time and kept going out on deck posing for pictures to send home to their families.  

Today is Princess Beatrix of the Netherlands’ birthday so staff and many guests wore orange in her honor. After all, this is Holland America and the ship is registered in the Netherlands.

Day three: A Visit from Palmer Station

February 1, 2016

This morning we picked up members of the program staff at Palmer Station – one of three U.S.-operated research stations in Antarctica. They presented a history of research initiatives in the Antarctic, including the NSF’S writers and artists program. Each year a writer and an artist are selected to spend time in Antarctica. Selection is based on applications that list what aspects of the Antarctic the applicants wish to study. This year’s writer and artist are focusing on the Snowy Sheathbill, a bird that is often overlooked because everyone is obsessed with penguins. The artist said that if she just walks outside the Snowy Sheathbills are likely to walk right up to her to investigate her shoelaces. We also learned that there is an iceberg floating around out there the size of Connecticut! Several of the members of the station, including its station chief, have spent extended time in Antarctica at the Palmer Station as well as stations at the South Pole and McMurdo. In winter temps dip as low as -114 F. Brrr. And we’re complaining about 30 degrees!

Palmer Station crew returning to the continent

Antarctica has over 40 permanent research stations which belong to the 30 nations that have signed the Antarctic Treaty.

The afternoon was sunny and relatively warm (or less cold). Many hardy souls, including the captain, took a dip in the Sea View pool at the ship’s aft to earn credit for having gone swimming in the Antarctic. It was lots of fun to watch. The ship’s chief security officer – a retired Canadian policeman from Calgary – dove in in his uniform!

                                                         Swimming the Antarctic

Later we enjoyed a nice, sunny afternoon on the veranda!

As we cruise in Antarctic waters we have access to on-going commentary by members of the Antarctic Expedition Team on board. They are on the bridge and adept at not only spotting whales, seals and penguins, but also identifying the type of each. They also give some pretty interesting lectures.

Day four: Penguins on an iceberg!

February 2, 2016

Another sunny day. As we entered the LeMaire Channel – a particularly narrow channel – we encountered too much ice, so we turned around and headed to the Antarctic Sound to take advantage of the good weather. Most of our itinerary in Antarctica is “dependent on ice and weather.”

In the sound we saw icebergs the size of the ship, as well as several occupied by large groups of Adelie Penguins. This captain is having as much fun as the passengers, so he is really good about stopping the ship or circling around to give everyone a better view. He is descended from Norwegian whalers and this is his first trip to Antarctica. At the ship-sized iceberg next to the penguin-filled smaller iceberg he sailed the ship between the two bergs and dispatched a small launch with the ship’s photographers aboard to get shots of the penguins with the ship and its companion iceberg in the background. We got lots of great penguin shots. The downside is our proximity caused many of the penguins to panic and they started diving off the iceberg.

   

     Penguins on a berg with Esperanza in background

              Penguins diving off the iceberg

There are two permanent communities in Antarctica, each with a shop and school. However, most residents only stay two years. This afternoon we saw Esperanza, the Argentinian community. It has one road and a series of small, orange buildings.

        View of Esperanza Station

This afternoon we attended a lecture about Antarctic Art. One attribute of the Antarctic is a blurred horizon. Another is the subtle shades of color. Several countries,V in addition to the U.S., sponsor special artist programs, including the U.K., Brazil, France, Australia and New Zealand. The work that results is excellent.

As the fog rolled in on this iceberg-populated sea this evening, we did have a few passing thoughts about the Titanic. ;-)

Day five: More scenic cruising before a change in the weather

February 3, 2016

This morning we sailed into Admiralty Bay near King George Island in the Shetland Islands. One of the members of the expedition team is from New Zealand and pronounces it “sheetland”. This is the location of research stations operated by Peru, Ecuador, Brazil and Poland. We are told that the residents of the various stations often get together to socialize – especially during the long winter months.

This afternoon it got foggy again so all views were obscured, which caused us to miss Elephant Island. If anyone has ever seen the documentary on Shackelton, the British explorer who made many expeditions to Antarctica, you’ll know that Elephant Island is where he left his crew to go find help and returned months later to find them all alive. This afternoon we attended a lecture about that particular expedition. It was called “The Greatest Small Boat Trip of all Time.” Then we watched the documentary on the TV in our cabin last night.

Day six: Sailing the southern Atlantic to the Falklands

February 4, 2016

It’s a sea day and the Drake Passage is living up to its reputation for rough seas, although not as bad as it might be. Nothing special to see today. Tomorrow morning we will anchor off the Falkland Islands near the capital, Port Stanley.

If you have a chance, be sure to watch a documentary called The Last Continent, narrated by Donald Sutherland.