Don’t cry for me – it’s Argentina!

January 29, 2016

You know that joke – “It’s not the end of the world, but you can see it from here.” Well, we are actually at the end of the world – the southernmost city in South America, Ushuaia, Argentina. Actually, there is a small town in Chile (just across the Beagle Channel), Port Williams, that is actually further south. But the population is too small to qualify as a city and it is not equipped to handle large ships. So, Ushuaia wins the bragging rights as “the end of the world.”

Lovely Ushuaia

Ushuaia is the capital city of the Argentine Province of Tierra del Fuego, Antartida e Islas del Atlantico Sur, with a population of 60,000. It is surrounded by the Martial mountain range, one of the last bastions of the Andes. Everywhere you look, the snow-capped peaks seem within touching distance. It reminds me of my time at the University of Colorado at Boulder when the Rocky Mountains seemed within touching distance.   

We were able to walk into town from the ship. This is a year-round tourist city. In summer (January, February and March) it is where the ships traveling to the Antarctic stop for provisions, passengers, etc. In winter the skiers dominate. Ushuaia claims to host one of the most “exclusive and best equipped” ski centers in South America, Cerro Castor. So the city is filled with hotels, hostels, tourist shops, restaurants and outdoor equipment stores.

Oh, and jewelry shops. I got an early birthday present – a lovely pendant of Incan Rose stone – the national gem of Argentina. And, especially, chocolate where I picked some artisanal Patagonian dark chocolate (negra).

Dark chocolate from Patagonia

John, of course, bought more wine. The young man who waited on us when we bought the wine, spoke perfect English and, with his dark skin and curly hair, looked out of place in this city populated by mostly whites. Turns out he is Haitian, now from Miami, and is here to “try something new.” He’s working on a degree in industrial engineering.

We bought “End of the World” tees for the grandkids, ball caps for Ushuaia and Cape Horn, and sent birthday postcards to the three Valentine’s Day grandkids. The young woman in the souvenir shop said that the previous weekend over 13,000 visitors had been in town including 8,000 from two gigantic cruise ships of 4,000 passengers each.

When we were about an hour out from Ushuaia, the captain announced that we were turning around and going back for an emergency medical evacuation. When we returned the ship was backed into the docking area, a small boat buzzed by and we were on our way again almost immediately. We have not heard who was evacuated or why, but It’s very sad. However, it might have been worse as we do not have easy access to land again until February 5^th when we reach the Falklands.

As you may assume, it is chilly with temps in the low 50s and upper 40s. And most of our fellow passengers dress accordingly. However, there are some who continue to dress in sandals, shorts and tee shirts. Hey, it’s a cruise!  

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day ten: Glacier Alley and Cape Horn January 28, 2016

Wow! What a day! This morning we woke up to the sight of glaciers as we sailed down the Beagle Channel with Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego on the starboard side and Chilean islands – Navarino, Picton, Lennox and Nueva on the port side. Luckily our cabin is on the port side, so we were able to enjoy the amazing views of glacier after glacier from the comfort of our quarters.

First, a little history. The Beagle Channel, located in the extreme south of the South American continent, is the border between Argentina and Chile. It is named after the HMS Beagle which did hydrographic surveys, commissioned by the British Crown, in the early 19^th century. On the ship’s second voyage through the channel, the ship was captained by Robert FitzRoy and its passengers included a 21-year-old Charles Darwin. The Beagle Channel provides the last calm waters before Antarctica.

In the Glacier Alley portion of the trip we passed five glaciers – Romanche, Alemania, Francia, Italia, and Hollanda. The weather – unusual for this region, even in summer – was clear and sunny, and the sea was very calm. Our captain noted that we were seeing peaks and views normally obscured by clouds.

The Romanche Glacier - my favorite because of the waterfall

We also saw the famous lighthouse, Les Eclaireurs, on the Argentinian coast. It is one of the better known icons of Tierra del Fuego and was erroneously called “The Lighthouse at the End of the World” in Jules Verne’s novel. Somehow, I thought it would be bigger and more impressive.

We spent most of the afternoon sailing down the Beagle Channel watching for – and occasionally seeing – small sea penguins, dolphins, and lots of albatrosses. Then the moment we had all been waiting for – Cape Horn. Due to the unusually calm seas and clear weather we had a beautiful view of Cape Horn as well as its monument to the sailors who have died trying to round the Cape. The monument is built to withstand 100-mile-per-hour plus winds and has had to be replaced once already. The ship we are on – the MS Prinsendam – was hit by two rogue waves only a few years ago. Over 40 passengers and crew were injured.But not today! 

Our captain sent a small launch to the Cape Horn administrative building with all of our passports to be stamped with a special stamp by Chilean authorities. While waiting for the launch’s return we sailed around the Cape, encountering a Norwegian Antarctic Excursion ship returning to South America. Friendly greetings were exchanged via horns.

Our passports on the way to Cape Horn for special stamps

Chilean media were at the Cape Horn building in anticipation of tomorrow’s special event – the arrival of the King of Holland to commemorate the 400^th anniversary of the discovery of Cape Horn by Dutch merchant ships on January 29, 1616.

Enjoying the view of Cape Horn

When we returned to our cabin after our evening activities we found Cape Horn Certificates acknowledging our journey around Cape Horn. This was a fitting end to what has been a wonderful ten days in Chile.

Wishing you all “marimari”, which means “May you be well” in Huilliche. This language is spoken by about 2000 indigenous Chileans. Most speakers are older adults who are not passing the language on to their descendants, so the language is expected to become extinct. 

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day nine: Punta Arenas January 27, 2016

Today we are in the southernmost city in Chile. Punta Arenas is on the Magellan Strait and has a population of over 125,000. The weather was partly sunny with temps in the lower 50s – not bad! We took the shuttle into town and explored on our own. John found his cap and I found a nice book about the city and the area.

The city is very clean, and the people we encountered were friendly and helpful, although my limited Spanish came in handy as most do not speak much English.

At the main square we saw lots of crafts people and a lovely enactment of Patagonian tango at the base of a large monument to Magellan.

This is our last port in Chile. We are so very impressed with the country as a whole. The cities have been very clean and, although there are many poor people, the poverty does not seem as pervasive as one might expect in a South American country.

When we returned to the cabin tonight we found Antarctica Log Books in preparation for our up-coming rounding of Cape Horn and cruising through the Beagle Channel and Drake Passage.

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day eight: Sailing through the Chilean Fjords January 26, 2016

This was a day of smooth seas and dramatic scenery. We saw seals, and lots of glacier-shaped mountains. The mountains have hosted glaciers over the centuries to the extent that even when the glaciers are gone the mountains retain the shape and striations created by the glaciers. Our itinerary calls for us to sail through Glacier Alley in a few days.

                       Typical view in Chilean Fjord

We also saw a shipwreck. The ship had been built at the end of WW II, and then acquired by a private company in the early 80s. It seems the wreck was caused by some miscommunications, and the ship went right when it should have gone left. This was in 1985. The crew all survived and spent the night on the little island.

Shipwreck in Chilean Fjord

One of our ship-board friends, Jurg from Switzerland, is staying up day and night, using the charts we have been provided to track each and every island we pass. He loves history and is excited that we are passing through the waterways discovered and mapped by Magellan and Darwin. 

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day six: Puerto Chacabuco January 24, 2016 and Day seven: At sea January 25, 2016

Day six: Puerto Chacabuco

January 24, 2016

Welcome to Patagonia! We are anchored in the middle of a Chilean Fjord surrounded by green mountains backed up by snow-covered peaks and glaciers. The scenery is breathtaking. Words and photographs cannot do it justice! Over 60% of the ship’s passengers took shore excursions that included such activities as fly-fishing, horse-back riding, kayaking, hiking and sight-seeing. We took the tender to the cruise dock where we caught up on free wifi, asked questions about the region, and visited the crafts market. Then we returned to the ship and enjoyed the scenery that surrounds us.

Chacabuco knitter

See the ship behind me in the fjord.

Puerto Chacabuco has a population of only 2,000 and is the primary port for the Aysen Region. Nearby is the town of Aisen with a population of about 20,000. The region’s capital city, Coyhaique, is about ten miles away and has a population of about 50,000. Sad environmental commentary – about 100 years ago Aisen was the port. But when farmers cut down the trees to create farmland, the surrounding bay filled with soil and Aisen found itself inland.

When we left we sailed through the Darwin Channel – miles of beautiful mountains of green forests with the occasional waterfalls snaking down the mountain from the glaciers above.

The captain warned us that when we reached open ocean again we should expect a rocky ride and, sure enough, at 10:00 p.m. when we exited the Darwin Channel the ship began to roll and pitch. We made our way back to our cabin and “strapped” ourselves in for the night.

Day seven: At sea

January 25, 2016

After a rocky night, John has woken up sick, so we have cancelled the Chilean Cellar Master’s dinner for this evening. The good news is that we have entered another Fjord and the seas are calm again for a while. It is unusual for John to get seasick, it has happened only once before. However the scenery is beautiful again and a little chicken soup, some crackers and a green apple should be just what he needs to feel good again.

During the night our lovely flowers fell victim to the movements of the ship and toppled over. The water that spilled on the desk got into my Kindle Fire tablet and it doesn’t seem to be working. We will know better later after it has had time to dry. I wonder if my Amazon Prime can get me a new one delivered to Buenas Aires by February 9^th. ;-) 

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day five: Puerto Montt January 23, 2016

The Chilean cities just keep getting better the further south we sail. Our new favorite is now Puerto Montt. This port city of 300,000 has an amazing market, a lovely topography – three levels – and, due to a more Mediterranean climate, lots of beautiful flowers.

At the Plaza de Armas in Puerto Varas

Orsono Volcano to left above clouds

We hired a driver and took a two-hour tour to Puerto Varas (City of Roses) situated on beautiful Lake Llanquihue with a view of the snow-topped Orsono Volcano. This is one of the most visited places in Chile since the completion of the “train to the end of the world.” The town was settled by German immigrants in the mid-19^th century who were encouraged by presidential advisor Vincente Perez Rosales, a tireless promoter of European Immigration to Southern Chile. Today there are lots of German surnames, food and cultural influences in the region.

Then back to Puerto Montt where we got a beautiful overview from a high observation point before traveling down the mountain into town. The bay is beautiful surrounded by islands.

Puerto Montt overlook

Puerto Montt home with roses

At one point on the Pan American highway we were concerned our vehicle was going to run out of gas. As we were leaving Puerto Varas our driver pulled into a gas station, but it was closed. We managed to continue – virtually on empty – the 6 kilometers back to Puerto Montt and the nearest station. Phew!

We asked to be dropped off at the Anselmo fishing cove and market. We saw a seal cavorting in the shallow water around the fishing boats and a local stray dog standing in the shallower water barking at him. Another special feature of the market were the large barnacles. John was in his glory as these are among his favorite shell fish. In Portugal he says they are small and very expensive. Here they were quite large and a plate of 4, cooked, was being sold for less than $4.

Anselmo Fishing Cove

Look at the size of that barnacle

Cooked barnacles on a plate

As we left the fish market we stopped in at a charming tea/coffee shop with hand carved tables and stools in free-form shapes. We enjoyed espressos and a wedge of delicious dark chocolate. Then, on the 10-minute walk back to the port through a long line of crafts vendors, I broke my vow not to buy any more jewelry and picked up lovely Lapis earrings and a pendant with a color-changing stone whose name I cannot remember. The price was right and I was pleased to be buying directly from the jeweler.

Leaving Puerto Montt, the captain advised that we could be sailing into some rough seas and should consider securing our belongings. As it turned out, we had smooth sailing. Somehow I doubt that will continue to be the case.

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day four: At sea January 22, 2016

Tonight was the gala Black & White Ball, during which all the ship’s officers danced with the guests. We had dinner with our friends from the World Cruise – Chicagoans Bob and Toya – where we enjoyed the first of our Chilean wines, as well as a bottle of champagne.

Our cruise director – a delightful Australian woman named Tam – is an excellent singer who performed with our equally excellent Philippine band. Speaking of Tam, her husband and 3-year-old daughter are aboard. We have dubbed her daughter “Little Miss Prinsendam.” She is a delight and brings smiles to everyone’s faces where ever she goes.

Also worthy of mention are the three (so far) special wine dinners – six-course meals with paired wines – we have attended. The first was a special Cellar Master dinner for which our cellar master, Neil, chose both the menu as well as the wines. The second was a Peruvian dinner with wines, and most recently a Pinnacle Chef’s dinner which featured the most delicious dessert I have ever tasted. On the 25^th we are looking forward to a Chilean dinner with wines.

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day three: Valparaiso, Chile January 21, 2016

We are docked among thousands of containers being on and off loaded at this busy Chilean port. It is a fascinating operation in efficient supply-chain management. Passengers are not allowed to walk from the ship to the main gate. Instead, shuttle buses are provided for the 5- to 10-minute trip.

Because travel to Santiago is a minimum of 90-minutes each way, we chose to stay in Valparaiso. Like Coquimbo, the city rises up the steep mountainside. As we exited the terminal we met a couple from New Zealand looking for someone to share a sight-seeing van. After some negotiations with the local tour company reps, we ended up sharing a van with not only the New Zealanders, but also couple from Australia. The price was a huge discount from tours offered by the ship. We had a great tour and made some new acquaintances as well.

Valparaiso is a beautiful city filled with lots of colorful homes, some lovely Colonial architecture, and beautiful colorful murals. The city has been heavily damaged three times in recent years, beginning with an earthquake in 1985, and ending with a huge fire in 2010 (or thereabouts). We saw some buildings still in need of repair. We are told the murals are the city’s way of defiantly recovering from the devastations that have threatened to destroy it.    

Valparaiso over look

Private home

Murals of Valparaiso

On the way back to the ship we picked up five bottles of Chilean wine that are not sold in the US.

As much as we liked Coquimbo, we liked Valparaiso even better. It is even high on our list of possible places to spend the winter once we have cruised everywhere. We are impressed with how clean the Chilean cities are, which we take to be a sign of pride of place, a decent economy, and stable government.

A bit of Chilean trivia – Chile has more astrological observatories than any other country.

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day two: Coquimbo, Chile January 20, 2016

Coquimbo is the port city that shares a beautiful bay with La Serena, which is the larger city. 

Coquimbo is the Diaguita word meaning “place of calm waters”. The Diaguita came to what is now known as the Norte Chico region from across the Andes in pre-Colombian times and settled on the coast where they grew maize, potatoes and other crops. They were among the first civilizations to herd and domesticate Llamas.

We got off the ship and just started walking, first through a huge market where vendors were selling fresh fish, shell fish, ceviche, and empanadas, as well as crafts. We then walked up – and I do mean up – into town. The city is literally built on the side of the mountain and about every three blocks or so a zig-zag walkway allows residents to get to their homes. Murals are everywhere and the houses are painted in many bright colors. It all lends the city a very cheerful atmosphere. Crossing at the light on one main street, we saw a man juggling swords to entertain the cars stopped at the light.

The town’s main square, Plaza de Armas, was a busy place with more street vendors, musicians, and lots of children playing. BTW, every Chilean city’s main square is called Plaza de Armas.  It is summer vacation in Chile and the schools are closed until April.

We walked almost five miles before heading back down the hill and back through the fish market. Unable to resist, we stopped for lunch at one of the restaurants. The fish is very fresh, but the Chileans eat it mostly fried instead of grilled. It was still very good. We were the only tourists in the restaurant. Seems Chile is one of the world’s largest producers of salmon – second only to Norway.

In the fish market at Coquimbo

Along the pier were four “pirate ships” available to take visitors for a sail long the coast. Of course the big cruise ship parked nearby made for a tempting target. While sitting on our veranda, we were entertained by the theatrics of the pirates “firing” on our ship and engaging in “sword fights” with crew from some of the other ships. Our captain authorized a warning blast from the ship’s horn, which was met with more “fire” from the pirate ships. Finally John waved a white flag from our cabin and gave up the big ship. ;-) 

Ten days and five ports in Chile -- Day one: At sea

January 19, 2016

Sailing through the Humboldt Current, the ship is listing to port (left) side due to a combination of a strong wind from the right and some issue below which we are assured is being corrected. We are accompanied by South American Boobies who fly alongside the ship. One must have gotten a bit tired because it landed on the bow and rode along that way.

We returned to our cabin this evening to find a beautiful bouquet of flowers. They were from Daryl, one of the waiters in the Crow’s Nest who is sailing on his first contract. This is Daryl’s first time away from home in the Philippines and, at age 27, he is suffering from both home sickness and dangerously high blood pressure. It runs in his family. On the cruise before this one his blood pressure got so high he almost had a stroke. So John gave him the portable blood pressure monitor we carry. Daryl was obviously touched and the flowers were his way of saying thanks for the kindness. Now he checks his blood pressure 4 times each day.  

Four days in Peru

Day 1: Trujillo, Peru – like visiting the moon

January 14, 2016

                  Welcome to Peru!

We docked at Salaverry, Peru this morning. This is the port city for nearby Trujillo. The beachscape here is miles of gray sand transitioning into standstone mountains. We had not realized how arid the west coast of South America is. In this case, the coast reminded us of a moonscape. If the moonwalk was faked, Salaverry is where it could have occurred. We are told that in General San Martin, Peru – which we’ll visit on the 17^th – the Mars rover would feel right at home.

We took the ship’s shuttle into Trujillo and spent a couple of hours wandering around. The Plaza de Armas, the central square, is quite picturesque. It is surrounded by colonial-style buildings, churches and museums. Trujillo was the Spanish resting place between Quito (Ecuador) and Lima. It was founded in 1535 and named after Francisco Pizarro’s birthplace in Spain.

Plaza de Armas, Trujillo with my postcard

We have been warned by the ship of increased crime, including attacks on tourists, in Lima. Apparently this is not limited to Lima as the town center was filled with police.

From the Plaza we strolled down a pedestrian street filled with restaurants and shops. In one shop I found my Trujillo post card and used my high school Spanish to get directions to the post office (Correo). When we arrived, however, the line was literally out the door. A woman standing near us noted our dismay and commented that “such is life in Peru.”  

Sharpening knives in Trujillo

Back at the port we bought a ball cap to add to John’s collection and, of course, a tee shirt from the many vendors there.

Tomorrow we arrive in Callao, the port city for Lima. We dock at noon and depart the following day (1/16) at 10:00 p.m. We are still on Eastern Standard Time.  

Days 2 and 3: The Limas in Lima

January 15, 2016

And so we have arrived at “our city”, Lima. We are docked in Callao, a busy industrial port where our little cruise ship, next to the Silver Sea’s Silver Whisper, is dwarfed by the many huge container ships. Callao is a typical seaport – rough and grimy. We have been warned not to walk around in the port due to high crime. We arrived at noon and will sail again at 10:00 p.m. tomorrow.

For the first day we took a “Highlights of Lima” tour. This included visits to the monastery and to the Cathedral of Lima – a World Heritage Site where Pizarro is interred – as well as a stroll around the Plaza de Armas, the main square, which is surrounded by the Cathedral, the President’s mansion, the Archbishop’s home, etc. It is quite a lively place made livelier by the preparations for a large festival the next day.

In the Cathedral of Lima

On the Plaza de Armas

Polishing the brass at the Lima Stock Exchange

In front of the Monastery

For a city of 10 million, Lima is surprisingly clean – even the poorer sections. Peru has suffered from many years of corrupt government. It has no government services for the poor or the elderly. Yet we did not see excessive amounts of begging. According to our guide, in spite of the corruption, the country enjoys a very large middle class. He pointed out the various middle and upper class neighborhoods as we drove by. Tourism is the country’s major industry so when a crime spree against tourists broke out police presence was dramatically increased.

January 16, 2016

Lima, day 2, and we decided to strike out on our own. The cruise line provides two complimentary shuttle busses – one to the San Miguel Mall (ironic given that John Lima was born on the island of Sao Miguel), and one to MilleFlores, an up-scale neighborhood and shopping district next to the coast. We took the shuttle to the mall with the thought of grabbing a taxi back to the historic district. After running the gauntlet of eager taxi drivers who met us as the bus stop, we decided to visit the mall and grab a taxi later. The ship wasn’t sailing until 10:00 p.m., so we had plenty of time. Once we got into the mall, however, we passed a salon with reasonably-priced manicures and pedicures (compared to the ship), so we treated ourselves, the walked to the local Starbucks for some free wifi while our nails dried.

We then grabbed the shuttle back to the ship and changed to the shuttle to MilleFlores. This bus dropped us off in front of OUR hotel – the Marriott Lima – and once again we visited the shopping center where we found a lovely store with high-quality, light weight alpaca clothing. John bought a new sweater. I found a chocolate store for some genuine Peruvian dark chocolate.

Then we found a restaurant overlooking the beach and enjoyed a sampling of Peruvian appetizers. One that really stood out for us was the Tomatillo Verde – a green soft taco wrapped around a potato mixture. I know it doesn’t sound impressive, but it was delicious. Seems potatoes are a major crop in Peru so much of the cuisine features potato.

Peruvian cuisine is quite varied due to the influence of large populations of Japanese and Chinese who immigrated several generations ago to work on the haciendas after Peru abolished slavery in 1849 and the African former slaves found other forms of employment.

The beach in Lima is covered with smooth stones instead of sand. Yet lots of people were sunbathing on the stony surface on this sunny, warm Saturday afternoon. It didn’t look all that comfortable.

All in all, we liked Lima – both its historic and modern areas. Peru is having a big presidential election this year but, according to our guide on the first day, it looks to be more of the same corruption no matter who is elected. One of the candidates is the daughter of Fujimori, the son of Japanese immigrants who served as president for many years before resigning in disgrace. She has a chance because before Fujimori succumbed to temptation he did many good things for the county and his name is still a symbol of good things in the country.

Day 4: General San Martin and Pisco, Peru

January 17, 2016

Our last stop in Peru – the port of General San Martin and the nearby village of Pisco – made us wonder why we had stopped here. The port is very small – just us and a single container ship – and surrounded by the same desolate “moon scape” we saw in Trujillo. In this case, the landscape is a major archeological site and nearby is an island that boasts thousands of species of birds, sea lions, and penguins. I was surprised to learn they were this far north, but apparently the water here is very cold due to currents. The village, a 20-minute bus ride from the port, is home to no more than a few thousand people, but has become popular for weekend visitors from Lima. The harbor is filled with fishing boats, the restaurants specialize in ceviche (cevicherias), and the handicraft shops stretch the length of the street. We browsed, found the ball cap, and got up-close and personal with a pelican.

As we sailed away we sailed past the Paracas Candelabra – a large carving into the side of the cliff done by some ancient peoples who left no language of record and who remain an enigma to the archeologists.

Making friends in Pisco

The moonscape of Paracas 

Paracas Candelabra

Now it’s goodbye to Peru as we sail south to Chile.

Ecuador – Not lovely to look at, but interesting

January 12, 2016: Docked in Manta, Ecuador today. Manta has a population of about 350,000 and is the fastest growing city in Ecuador. We were up early to join a tour of the region. Our tour guide, Hector, is a full-time lawyer and part time tour guide. As he was taking a poll of our fellow passengers re country of origin, after one lady said she was from the U.K., the man behind her said he was from Scotland – a very funny declaration given the recent vote by Scotland to stay in the UK.   

Our first stop was the beach at San Lorenzo where five varieties of tuna are landed daily. According to Hector, Ecuador is the tuna capital of the world and fishing in general remains the main industry in the country. The beach is beautiful and lined with fishing boats sitting on the logs used to roll them into the water. A small group of women were scaling small fish (relatives of the sardine) for use as chum. John joined in and the women thought he was wonderful.

John and his favorite fish filleter

Occasionally the fishermen land “unblemished” tuna – unmarked by lines, hooks, etc. These command a very high price for the local fishermen, however that’s nothing compared to what this variety brings at auction in Japan.

Coffee production is the second leading export of Ecuador. Hector told us that 80% of Ecuadorian coffee is purchased by Colombia and marketed as “genuine Colombian coffee picked by Juan Valdez.” Apparently Juan Valdez is mostly Ecuadorian and Brazilian (the other source of so-called Colombian coffee).

From the beach we drove up the mountain to a wildlife preserve, Pacoche. Ecuador is not a very scenic country. The climate changes from desert to semi-rain forest as one travels upward, but none is very pretty. Unfortunately at the preserve we were too early to see the monkeys and many of the supposedly thousands of bird species. While there we learned to make a staple of Manteno diet, the boulla – a mashed together and fried ball of plantain, cilantro, onion, cheese and butter. It was okay.

Making boulla ain Pacoche

From Pacoche we drove back down the mountain to Monte Cristi – home of the hand-made Panama hat. It’s called the Panama hat because Teddy Roosevelt wore one when checking on the progress of the building of the Panama Canal and attributed his ability to avoid a sunburn to his “Panama hat.” But they are really = and continue to be – handmade in Ecuador. The hats vary in price based on the thickness of the fiber – the quality is the same, but the refinement is different. The finest quality hats can hold water and all the hats can be rolled up for storage and return to their original shape. We each bought one! Tonight was Panama hat night aboard ship, so ours were the head covering of the day.

Beautiful Panama Hat in butterfly bush

Weaving Panama hats

Last stop was the Tagua button factory. Tagua is a nut found only in Colombia and Ecuador. It is edible, but when it hardens it becomes like ivory – suitable for carving, jewelry and buttons. It is called “vegetable ivory.” The factory is nothing more than a series of buildings where a family of turkeys – mom, dad, and a little peeper – as well as chickens roamed freely. OSHA would shut it down in a heartbeat, but the workers seemed to take pride in their work.

BTW, minimum wage in Ecuador is $350 per month – up from $250. The country’s currency is the US Dollar.    

Our only disappointment was our inability to buy postcards and the ball cap. Unlike many ports, we were not docked next to a souvenir shop.

January 13 – at sea. The ship is leaking in many locations – lots of buckets and slippery when wet yellow cones. Hope this doesn’t turn into another Poseidon Adventure. ;-))

And the adventures at sea continue – this afternoon we had to stop in the middle of the ocean due to problems with a stabilizer. Turns out a large shark had gotten into the stabilizer. When we stopped it effectively dislodged the shark. The captain – a veteran – said this was his first experience of this type. 

Costa Rica, the Panama Canal and Fuerte Amador, Panama

January 8: Welcome to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica. This little port town is the entry for both cruise ships and container ships. Unfortunately, the town’s commercial growth has removed any sense of charm from this community. Even the public market center is mostly lots of junk shops instead of the open-air food stalls that we are told used to predominate. While strolling in the park we saw a sloth hanging out, taking its day-time nap. It was pointed out to us by a local man, otherwise we would have missed it.

In the “tourist” market on our way back to the ship, we purchased the required ball cap, local chocolate sampler, and John got a manicure from a very nice young woman who told us that, in addition to bananas and chocolate, high tech items are manufactured and shipped from Costa Rica. That explained the presence of a cell phone shop on almost every corner.

January 9: Today we transited the Panama Canal. Unlike the Suez Canal, which is just a big ditch through which ships sail close to land on each side, the Panama Canal had lots to see. The process of entering the lock, the raising up to the next water level, the use of the tugs and “mules” (today electric engines) to keep the ship properly aligned, and the final three locks that lowered us back to sea level – all made for a fascinating day. The ship provided expert commentary throughout the transit, which enhanced the experience.

On board a number of passengers “swam” the canal and earned a certificate of merit. What that meant was a bunch of people gathered in the sea view pool while crossing the Gatun Lake between the Atlantic-side locks and the Pacific-side locks.

We entered the first lock at approximately 7:00 a.m. and exited the last lock at about 7:00 p.m. Cost to the cruise line is about $190,000. Price is based on weight and, for cruise liners, passenger capacity. While in the final lock we passed a visitors’ center where the balconies were all crowded with on-lookers. Our captain sounded the ship’s horn three times, and the crowds on shore responded with a big cheer.

In the final phase a large tanker was in the lock parallel to ours. As you can imagine, it sported lots of “no smoking” signs.

January 10: We anchored last night off of Fuerte Amador on the Amador Causeway, across from Panama City. The causeway is built from the materials excavated during the construction of the Canal. From it you can see Panama City on one side and the Bridge of the Americas on the other. Along the way you pass the brightly colored Panama: Bridge of Life Museum of Biodiversity designed by architect Frank Gehry.

Because we had toured Panama City on an earlier trip, we simply took the complimentary shuttle to a local mall in search of caps and postcards. We had a little rain this afternoon – after we had returned to the ship – but, unfortunately, it did nothing to break the heat. Lots of Americans retire to Panama, but it’s too hot for me.   

Sea Days

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Day three at sea. We embarked about 10:30 p.m. on the 4^th and have spent these first three days at sea. It has given us the chance to work out dining arrangements, find our way around the ship and begin to develop some routines that make life aboard feel like home.

This ship is smaller than previous ships we have experienced, and older. Although it is generally a nice ship, it is showing its age.

We have seen many familiar faces from the 2015 World Cruise (read about that cruise at www.faroenterprises.blogspot.com) – some we are very happy to see again, like the couple from Chicago and the couple from Belgium; and others not so much.

Last night we enjoyed a concert by Melissa Manchester. Don't know why she's on a cruise ship, but she can still sing and the show was excellent.

Tomorrow we dock at Puerto Limon, Costa Rica. We plan to walk into town and explore on our own. Then, on Saturday, we traverse the Panama Canal.  

Today we booked a 21-day transAtlantic leaving Fort Lauderdale March 27, as well as the 2017 World Cruise. Add in the July Iberian Peninsula cruise with the grandchildren and we're really earning our sea legs over the next years.