Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Ten Days and Five Ports in Chile -- Day five: Puerto Montt January 23, 2016


The Chilean cities just keep getting better the further south we sail. Our new favorite is now Puerto Montt. This port city of 300,000 has an amazing market, a lovely topography – three levels – and, due to a more Mediterranean climate, lots of beautiful flowers.
At the Plaza de Armas in Puerto Varas

Orsono Volcano to left above clouds


We hired a driver and took a two-hour tour to Puerto Varas (City of Roses) situated on beautiful Lake Llanquihue with a view of the snow-topped Orsono Volcano. This is one of the most visited places in Chile since the completion of the “train to the end of the world.” The town was settled by German immigrants in the mid-19th century who were encouraged by presidential advisor Vincente Perez Rosales, a tireless promoter of European Immigration to Southern Chile. Today there are lots of German surnames, food and cultural influences in the region.

Then back to Puerto Montt where we got a beautiful overview from a high observation point before traveling down the mountain into town. The bay is beautiful surrounded by islands.

Puerto Montt overlook

Puerto Montt home with roses

At one point on the Pan American highway we were concerned our vehicle was going to run out of gas. As we were leaving Puerto Varas our driver pulled into a gas station, but it was closed. We managed to continue – virtually on empty – the 6 kilometers back to Puerto Montt and the nearest station. Phew!

We asked to be dropped off at the Anselmo fishing cove and market. We saw a seal cavorting in the shallow water around the fishing boats and a local stray dog standing in the shallower water barking at him. Another special feature of the market were the large barnacles. John was in his glory as these are among his favorite shell fish. In Portugal he says they are small and very expensive. Here they were quite large and a plate of 4, cooked, was being sold for less than $4.
Anselmo Fishing Cove

Look at the size of that barnacle

Cooked barnacles on a plate



As we left the fish market we stopped in at a charming tea/coffee shop with hand carved tables and stools in free-form shapes. We enjoyed espressos and a wedge of delicious dark chocolate. Then, on the 10-minute walk back to the port through a long line of crafts vendors, I broke my vow not to buy any more jewelry and picked up lovely Lapis earrings and a pendant with a color-changing stone whose name I cannot remember. The price was right and I was pleased to be buying directly from the jeweler.


Leaving Puerto Montt, the captain advised that we could be sailing into some rough seas and should consider securing our belongings. As it turned out, we had smooth sailing. Somehow I doubt that will continue to be the case.

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