The Chilean cities just keep getting better the further
south we sail. Our new favorite is now Puerto Montt. This port city of 300,000
has an amazing market, a lovely topography – three levels – and, due to a more
Mediterranean climate, lots of beautiful flowers.
We hired a driver and took a two-hour tour to Puerto Varas
(City of Roses) situated on beautiful Lake Llanquihue with a view of the
snow-topped Orsono Volcano. This is one of the most visited places in Chile
since the completion of the “train to the end of the world.” The town was
settled by German immigrants in the mid-19th century who were
encouraged by presidential advisor Vincente Perez Rosales, a tireless promoter
of European Immigration to Southern Chile. Today there are lots of German
surnames, food and cultural influences in the region.
Then back to Puerto Montt where we got a beautiful overview
from a high observation point before traveling down the mountain into town. The
bay is beautiful surrounded by islands.
Puerto Montt overlook
Puerto Montt home with roses
At one point on the Pan American highway we were concerned
our vehicle was going to run out of gas. As we were leaving Puerto Varas our
driver pulled into a gas station, but it was closed. We managed to
continue – virtually on empty – the 6 kilometers back to Puerto Montt and the
nearest station. Phew!
We asked to be dropped off at the Anselmo fishing cove and
market. We saw a seal cavorting in the shallow water around the fishing boats
and a local stray dog standing in the shallower water barking at him. Another
special feature of the market were the large barnacles. John was in his glory
as these are among his favorite shell fish. In Portugal he says they are small
and very expensive. Here they were quite large and a plate of 4, cooked, was
being sold for less than $4.
Anselmo Fishing Cove
Look at the size of that barnacle
Cooked barnacles on a plate
As we left the fish market we stopped in at a charming
tea/coffee shop with hand carved tables and stools in free-form shapes. We
enjoyed espressos and a wedge of delicious dark chocolate. Then, on the
10-minute walk back to the port through a long line of crafts vendors, I broke
my vow not to buy any more jewelry and picked up lovely Lapis earrings and a
pendant with a color-changing stone whose name I cannot remember. The price was
right and I was pleased to be buying directly from the jeweler.
Leaving Puerto Montt, the captain advised that we could be
sailing into some rough seas and should consider securing our belongings. As it
turned out, we had smooth sailing. Somehow I doubt that will continue to be the
case.
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