Between Rio and the Amazon

Ilheus, Brazil

Wednesday, February 17, 2016

At the beach in Ilheus (pronounced eel-yea-ush)

With statue of author Jorge Amado in front of his home

Another small (by Brazilian Standards) city with the usual square, church and small shops, Ilheus is nothing special. Many of our fellow passengers agree that we could have skipped this stop. Only three memorable things: 1. Author Jorge Amado’s home where he penned his first novel, 2. good dark chocolate from the former “cocoa coast”, and 3. lunch in a “not-tourist” restaurant (thanks to John’s ability to speak Portuguese). That last, however, caused us to miss our anniversary dinner this evening as something John ate made him sick. Nothing serious, but dinner was in the cabin and consisted of broth and crackers. Neither Toya, Bob nor I were similarly afflicted. 

Salvador, Brazil

Thursday, February 18, 2016

Unlike Ilheus, Salvador is a major city and the original capital city of Brazil. We docked within walking distance of the historic district, so no shuttle busses are required. Next to our ship is The World, a ship on which all cabins are privately owned condominiums. We had heard of this and one other ship with private residences, but this is the first time we have actually seen one.

The World, a private residence cruise ship

A short walk through the Mercado Modelo – a busy tourist market housed in the original Customs House built in 1867, and we arrive at the Elevador Lacerda. Built in 1868, this tower with four elevators transports us (for the princely sum of fifteen centavos – about four cents US) to the restored historic center at the top of the mountain.

Salvador is considered the cultural capital of Brazil. It was founded in 1549 and was a major port for sugarcane and slave trade. Thousands of slaves brought to Brazil 400 ago to work in the sugarcane plantations makes Salvador Brazil’s most Africanized city. From religious traditions like Candomble to music and art, the African influence is evident everywhere.

The historic district is filled with narrow cobblestone streets, lovely squares surrounded by Colonial-era buildings, and 16 of the city’s more than 318 churches. The “ladies in white”, reminders of the slave women who tended the homes and helped raise the children, were everywhere ready to pose for pictures. This is a city that has never forgotten its slave roots and honors the memory of those who labored. In front of the old customs house is a monument to the days when cruel owners brought their recalcitrant slaves for public flogging.

With one of the lovely "ladies in white" - although not all are dressed in white.

John’s ability to speak Portuguese allowed us to hire a pedal-cab for a short tour. However, it was so hot and the streets were so hilly that we got off before the appointed time, paid off the exhausted driver and walked. In addition to sugar cane, Salvador was an important port for the country’s gemstones and gold, so jewelry shops are everywhere. Gemstone prices in Brazil are quite a bargain and we picked up some green Amethyst earrings for a song!

We stopped at a little café for a beer where we saw a beautiful elderly woman in African-style dress. She appeared to be known to the staff and held court in one corner of the dining room. Here, near the Equator, beer is served in glass bottles encased in individual coolers (see the picture) to keep it cold.

Keeping cool in Salvador

A little more shopping and then back to the ship.

Belem, Brazil

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

We stopped in two more cities – Maceio on the 19^th and Recife on the 20^th – and spent two days at sea before arriving in Belem. This is our last port before entering the Amazon. Rubber made Belem rich in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries. Today it is an important trading center for fish, shrimp and timber. This is a tender port, but near the pier are the markets and a delightfully restored dock area filled with shops and restaurants.

We wandered through the market past vast quantities of dried and fresh fish, meats, vegetables and other assorted foods as well as crafts and, of course, souvenir tee shirts and caps. Then we walked through several blocks filled with various shops selling shoes, clothing and other retail items. Belem is an  infrastructure-challenged city where stepping off a curb requires stepping over an open drainage conduit. No wonder mosquitoes thrive here.

In the restored Docks complex we enjoyed a little air-conditioned shopping, caprinas and snacks while waiting out the rain before boarding the tender for our trip back to the ship. We sailed at 9:00 p.m. through several thunder storms. The lightening was spectacular! Now it’s on to the Amazon for a week.